Kigali, Rwanda

Dec 25, 2024

Our journey from Uganda to Rwanda on Christmas Day began with a somewhat frustrating border crossing. It took longer than expected to buy visas and pass inspections—if only we’d known about the East Africa visa! Once we crossed into Rwanda, though, the contrast was immediate: the roads were impeccably maintained, and the driving experience was worlds apart from Uganda’s bumpy dirt paths.

We briefly considered stopping at the Dian Fossey Museum, but with muddy clothes, tired bodies, and two more hours of driving ahead, we decided to press on. At least we gained an hour crossing the border—an unexpected Christmas gift! Along the way, we marveled at the sight of Rwandans dressed in their finest clothes for Christmas. Families walking together in beautiful outfits brought a festive charm to the countryside.

A much-needed break came at Sooko, a fantastic coffee shop along the way. The samosas and coffee were incredible—so much so that we regretted not buying more. Refreshed, we hit the road again, enjoying the smooth drive all the way to Kigali.

Arriving at the Kigali Marriott, we passed through a quick security check and were warmly greeted by Assistant Manager Stephen. Check-in was seamless, and we were delighted to be upgraded to a Junior Suite with an adjoining double room. E’s bed fit perfectly in the suite’s sitting area, and the arrangement worked beautifully for our family.

The first order of business was long, hot showers. After days of trekking and muddy trails, washing off the grime was pure bliss. Feeling human again, we headed to the Executive Lounge for a snack, where the service and atmosphere were top-notch.

By 7:15, we were ready for dinner and set off for Fusion, a nearby restaurant, in a Marriott car arranged by Stephen. We arrived promptly at 7:30, but unfortunately, dinner wasn’t served until nearly 8:30, and we were tired and hungry. Still, the food was good and service fairly attentive.

After dinner, we returned to the Marriott and settled in for the night, grateful for the day’s smooth journey, the warm hospitality of the Marriott team, and the comfort of our rooms.

Fusion Restaurant at The Retreat

Eating outside would have been nice, but inside was fine
Soup was excellent, rest pretty good
Good enough that we boxed leftovers to bring home (but forgot the box)
Out of Woodford but had Patron
Seemed friendly and clean
More fun than just staying at the Marriott

Dec 26, 2024

Our last day of the trip began with an attempt to sleep in—but with the time change, 6 a.m. felt more like 7. We started the morning quietly with coffee and journaling in the Executive Lounge, savoring a peaceful moment before the day’s activities. By the time we got back to our room, the kids were already at the gym, so we joined them for a quick workout before heading down to an incredible breakfast buffet. The Marriott outdid itself, offering just about everything you could imagine.

Fueled for the day, we took the hotel car to the Nyamirambo Women’s Center for a walking tour. Mary welcomed us with an overview, and then we met Shadia, our guide—a Cornell grad and not much older than our oldest. Shadia led us through the neighborhood, sharing insights about the community and stopping at some fascinating spots: a milk bar where we tried fresh milk, a vegetable shop with rabbits for sale in the back, and a street where our kids played with local kids.

We visited a water point where residents pay 2 cents for 20 liters and marveled at a man carrying two full cans with ease—something Shadia said was no small feat. At a hairdresser’s shop, the girls had colorful braids added to their hair, a fun and unexpected part of the tour.

Lunch was served at a local woman’s house, shared with a few other families. The meal, cooked on-site as part of a class, was entirely vegetarian and included dodo (a spinach-like dish), green banana, cassava, sweet potatoes, cabbage, rice, and potatoes. It was simple, hearty, and delicious. Afterward, we returned to the women’s center for a bit of shopping, picking up beaded bags and other handmade items as souvenirs.

In the afternoon, we met Ken for a drive to the Kigali Genocide Memorial. Inside, our guide Billy walked us through the harrowing events of 1994 with a matter-of-fact yet respectful approach. The experience was deeply moving and educational, revealing parts of Rwanda’s history we hadn’t fully understood. It was inspiring to see how far the country has come since those dark days. We left flowers and observed a moment of silence before heading back out, just as the rain began to fall.

The girls braved the downpour to buy chocolate from the gift shop, returning soaked but triumphant. Back at the hotel, we worked out, showered (the dreamy water pressure was appreciated after the day’s mud and humidity), and packed our well-used, smelly clothes for the journey home.

At 5:30, we met Ken for the drive to the airport. Check-in was smooth enough, but security flagged my bag because of a Maasai club I’d purchased—even though other items like trekking poles made it through without issue. Frustrating but manageable. We passed the time in the basic lounge with simple snacks.

The flight home was relatively painless. The short hop to Entebbe included a crew change and cleaning, but the attendants were incredibly accommodating despite some mix-ups with our meal preferences. After a layover, we boarded our long-haul flight in the comfortable pods, where everyone managed to get some sleep. Immigration back in the U.S. was quick, and, to our surprise, my bag was among the first off the carousel.

Back home, we eased into normal life. It felt surreal to return after such an extraordinary trip. The memories we made—of gorillas, breathtaking landscapes, and the incredible resilience of the Rwandan people—will stay with us for a lifetime.

What an adventure it’s been!

Marriott Kigali