Dec 23, 2024 – 8 Airports
We were at 8 airports today, that’s got to be some sort of record. And 4 of them were dirt strips. We started in a Twin Otter at Mara North, then had a 5-minute hop to another dirt strip (Serena?) to pick up some more folks. 8 minutes after that, at Keekorok, we saw lions on the runway! The pilots actually did a u-turn to drive back down so we could all take pictures through the window – they said that was the first time they had seen lions there. After driving back to the ‘terminal’, we were told to get out to change planes, then told just kidding, it’ll be faster if you get back in. Finally, at Migori we got out and changed to a bigger Dash 8 that took us on to Kisumu. There we left our water bottles on the plane, got out and went through security several times (why?) and with multiple passport checks exited Kenya immigration. Back on the plane, reunited with our water bottles, and handed small sandwiches, we flew on to Entebbe.
In Entebbe we got the VIP treatment, whisked away by an energetic minder in a minivan to go through Uganda immigration. Then several more security checkpoints, each more stringent than the last. Finally we got into the gate, and after just a few minutes, were loaded back in the minivan with our pilots to go to the plane. We climbed in the Caravan and within 5 minutes were in the air. An hour later we were in a literal hailstorm with lightning over Kisoro. After a couple passes it was clear we couldn’t land, and after circling for a bit, the pilots diverted to Kihihi. We relaxed in the one-room terminal for a half hour, hungry from no lunch but using the time for journaling. Soon the pilots said the weather had cleared, and we made the final short hop to Kisoro. Whew!
After landing at Kisoro Airstrip, we met Ken, our guide for the next leg of our journey, and piled into the car. It was market day in Kisoro, and the entire town seemed to be buzzing with activity. The streets were alive with people selling everything from passion fruit and pineapples to shoes, clothes, charcoal, and firewood. The energy was infectious, and the sheer volume of people was almost overwhelming—Kisoro’s few paved streets were packed with life.
As we left the town, the road transitioned from smooth pavement to winding, bumpy dirt paths that snaked up and down the steep hills. The rain, which had stopped just before our flight landed, returned in earnest as we made our way toward the lodge. The scenery was breathtaking despite the downpour. The steep hillsides, improbably cultivated with crops, seemed to defy gravity. Tiny houses dotted the landscape, each surrounded by goats, cows, pigs, and chickens. The roads were mostly populated by motorcycles, pedestrians, and the occasional car. Every time we passed children, they waved excitedly, shouting “Hello!” or “Sweetie, sweetie!”
By the time we pulled into Gorilla Leisure Lodge, the rain had turned into a full downpour. We dashed inside, soaked but relieved to arrive. The lodge was a welcome sight: cozy, with spacious rooms with spectacular views. Our accommodations were luxurious, with private balconies each with an egg chair, and well-equipped bathrooms with great water pressure—a far cry from the rugged roads we’d just navigated.
While waiting for the rain to subside, we snacked on peanuts and connected to the Wi-Fi in the main hall, catching up on messages and enjoying a brief moment of calm. Dinner was a solid meal crafted by Joel, the lodge’s chef, and we all were happy to be fed.
That night, we retreated to our rooms, grateful for the cozy beds and the promise of the next day’s adventure to see the gorillas.
- Big rooms with nice balconies and egg chairs
- Not much of a view
- Food was good, not amazing, but good attention to GF and vegan
- Decent water pressure
- Similar vibe to Rushaga Gorilla Lodge next door, with not quite the view
- Probably about as good as you get in this area
Dec 24, 2024 – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Our Christmas Eve began with an early start—breakfast at 6:30, followed by a short drive to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. The morning was cool, and the excitement in the air was palpable as we joined the other trekkers for the day. At the park entrance, we were greeted with a lively dance performance before meeting our guide, Jane, and trackers Kenneth and John. Our small group also included Nathan and Natalie, a charming couple from Perth, Australia, and Paul and Monique, a Czech couple. Before we left, we all took pictures of a forest elephant placidly eating just across from the ranger station – they are apparently quite dangerous!
The journey to find the Rwigy family of gorillas was nothing short of an adventure. After a 30-minute drive through the winding roads of Bwindi’s lush hills, we began our trek in a small village. Initially, we walked along dirt paths that wound through cultivated fields and tiny homesteads, but before long, the path disappeared entirely. We climbed over a fence and plunged into the forest—a dense tangle of vegetation that was both exhilarating and humbling.
We made our way through the jungle, guided only by the trackers’ updates as they worked to locate the gorillas. At one point, we stopped and sat down in a steep ravine, waiting for news. Jane explained that tracking gorillas can be tricky because their trails often overlap with those of forest elephants. As we waited, the anticipation built, and we couldn’t help but wonder if we’d actually find them.
Finally, word came: the gorillas had been located! The next 20 minutes were a blur of steep descents and climbs, crossing a small creek, and scrambling through thick undergrowth. Then, just like that, we were there.
At first, we saw a small group—five gorillas lounging near the creek. Among them were two playful babies who rolled and tumbled while their mothers looked on. As we stood in awe, the silverback appeared, commanding the scene with his sheer presence. The gorillas seemed entirely unbothered by us, continuing to eat eucalyptus bark—a treat that Jane explained gives them a mild high. Watching them so close, their immense size and gentle demeanor were mesmerizing.
As the gorillas moved, we followed, climbing to a more open area where we could get better views. The young ones continued to play, climbing trees and even hitching rides on their mothers’ backs. The hour we spent with them passed in a heartbeat, every moment unforgettable.
At precisely 59 minutes and 59 seconds, our time was up. The trackers briskly ushered us away to ensure the gorillas could continue their day undisturbed. The trek back was faster, with fewer stops—though we couldn’t resist chatting with Kenneth, who asked curious questions about life back home. His amazement at the idea that we didn’t grow crops and raise animals was a reminder of how different our worlds are.
Once back at the park entrance, we received our gorilla tracking certificates—a memento of this extraordinary experience. Lunchboxes in hand, we piled into the car for the two-hour drive.
Lake Chahafi Resort, while simple, had its charms. Our rooms were cozy, and the Christmas touches—flowers on the beds spelling “Happy Christmas” and plates of food artfully decorated with carrots—brought festive cheer. Though the lake was weedy and the “canoe” more like a wooden dhow, the quiet was nice – we were the only guests.
After a mellow evening of Bananagrams and reading, we tucked into bed, still marveling at the awe-inspiring gorillas we’d met earlier that day. Christmas Eve had never felt so wild and wonderful.
- Attentive service, friendly staff
- No water pressure to speak of
- Hard beds
- Wifi unreliable
- Food was fine, and good attention to GF and vegan
- Lake was not the draw we thought it would be
- Kisoro has limited options, but we’d try another option next time
Dec 25, 2024 – Christmas with the Nyakagezi
Christmas morning began early, with a 5:30 wake-up call and breakfast at Lake Chahafi Resort. While the lodge tried its best, it left much to be desired—WiFi was nonexistent, the food was lackluster, and the showers barely functioned. Still, the beds, warmed by water bottles, provided a decent night’s sleep, and we woke feeling ready for the day ahead.
By 6:30, we were on the road to the Muhabura entrance of Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, an hour away. The drive took us through cultivated fields and sleepy villages just beginning to stir. We climbed steeply from the car park through farmland, the path slick and muddy from the previous day’s rain. At the park station, we met our guide, Caleb, and our two protectors, Francis and Benon. Joining us on the trek were Anna, a solo traveler from the UK, and Patrick, a solo traveler from Germany who had driven all the way from Kigali at 3 a.m. Anna, a certified safari guide, regaled us with stories of her adventures and recommended South Luangwa in Zambia for leopard sightings.
After a quick briefing and a mercifully short performance by the local dancers, we set off to see the Nyakagezi family. The hike began with a steep climb on a muddy trail, with no clear destination. At one point, we paused at a fork in the trail, waiting for the trackers to locate the gorillas. The delay sparked some skepticism—Anna and Louisa joked that we were waiting to let another group see the gorillas first. As it turned out, the other group had hiked much farther to see a smaller family of five gorillas.
Finally, word came that the trackers had found the group. The descent into the bush was steep, slippery, and punctuated by near falls and occasional butt slides to navigate the mud. The adventure reached its peak at a creek crossing when a massive silverback barreled through our group, casually bumping S off the trail as he passed. We had officially found the gorillas (or maybe, they had found us)!
Masks on and walking sticks set aside, we followed the silverback to the rest of the group. The gorillas were mesmerizing. One mother was breastfeeding her baby, while another playfully flipped her little one over with surprising gentleness. Some climbed trees, snapping branches with ease and gnawing on the bark. Others groomed each other, particularly the large silverback, who seemed to command the group’s attention even while dozing.
The hour with the gorillas felt both timeless and fleeting. We were able to move around the group, snapping photos and watching as they carried on with their routines, entirely unfazed by our presence. Their sheer power, combined with their calm demeanor, was awe-inspiring—a truly unforgettable Christmas morning.
Afterward, we trekked back, muddied but exhilarated, and grabbed our packed lunches to eat during the drive. The chicken was dry, but the boiled eggs were a hit, and we made a mental note to bring our own salt next time. The drive back was another adventure, bouncing over bad Ugandan roads for an hour before reaching the border. Along the way, we passed countless villagers returning from Christmas services at church, dressed in their finest clothes. Young girls in pristine white dresses, men in sharp suit jackets, and families walking together along the dusty roads added a sense of warmth and celebration to the day.
Christmas in Mgahinga was like no other—a day filled with mud, adventure, and an awe-inspiring encounter with the majestic gorillas. It was a holiday memory we’ll cherish forever.
