Mara North, Kenya

Dec 20, 2024 – Our First Day in the Masai Mara

Our journey to the Masai Mara began with a quick coffee at Wilson Airport in Nairobi, a small but bustling hub of activity. With two flights departing at the same time for different airstrips in the Mara, we made sure to get on the right one. Our ride? A four-engine Dash 7 that felt far more substantial than the typical bush plane. The flight was smooth, offering stunning aerial views of the Kenyan landscape. Before we knew it, we were touching down on a dirt strip in the North Mara Conservancy.

On the ground, we were greeted by George, our guide, and William, our driver—a two-person team that immediately impressed us with their knowledge and enthusiasm. As we drove away from the airstrip (all of 100 yards), we were stunned by what greeted us: a scene straight out of a wildlife documentary. Zebras, wildebeests, topis, and even warthogs were scattered across the plains, many with their babies in tow. It felt like the Mara was rolling out the red carpet for us.

After a short drive, we came across our first family of giraffes—six of them strolling together. The sight of these majestic creatures moving so gracefully across the savannah was unforgettable. It set the tone for the day: awe at every turn.

We soon arrived at Serian Original, our home base. Calling it a “camp” feels like an understatement. The family “tent” was both luxurious and connected to nature, perched right above the Mara River. The view was incredible—hippos lounged in the water below, and the local hyrox, Harry, darted through the trees around us with her baby, Gary. We were warmly welcomed by Amy, our host, whose bubbly personality and attention to detail immediately made us feel at home. Over a delicious lunch on the veranda, she explained that the camp had no fences, so animals were free to wander in and out. Hippos, it turns out, are frequent visitors, which is why walking alone at night is a strict no-no.

After lunch, we crossed the camp’s suspension bridge—a solid yet bouncy structure spanning the river. We paused to take a family photo, with the Mara’s wilderness as our backdrop. From the bridge, we spotted a crocodile sunning itself on the riverbank, the only one we’d see during our trip, and watched hippos bobbing in the water.

Following a brief rest and some yoga and reading on the veranda, we set out for an evening game drive. Within minutes, we stumbled upon a fascinating scene: four female lions working together to flush out a warthog from its den. One lion guarded the entrance while another dug furiously from behind, the warthog’s muffled squeals audible even from our vehicle. The other two lions lounged nearby, supervising. George told us this could take hours, so we decided to move on—and later heard they still hadn’t succeeded.

The drive continued to deliver surprises. We encountered a large group of giraffes, this time more than ten, along with some hyenas. We marveled at the sheer number of birds dotting the landscape. Vibrant colors stood out against the muted tones of the savannah, and while we’re not expert birders, even we couldn’t help but appreciate their beauty.

Back at camp, we wrapped up the evening with a delicious dinner featuring fish curry and plenty of laughter over Bananagrams. Amy and Annalotte joined us for their first-ever round of the game – Annalotte was allowed to use Dutch words, which made it more fun.

As we turned in for the night, the sounds of the Mara filled the air: the grunts of hippos, the distant call of a lion, and the rustling of leaves in the trees. Our tent, though cozy, had a short bed (well, short for Tom). Still, falling asleep to the symphony of the wild felt magical.

It was just the first day, and already the Masai Mara had shown us its endless wonders.

Dec 21, 2024 – Lions, Cheetahs, and a Nighttime Rescue

Our second full day in the Masai Mara began as usual in the early pre-dawn hours, with coffee, tea and biscuits before heading out at 6 a.m. The sunrise that morning was breathtaking—fiery hues illuminating the vast savannah, casting long shadows across herds of grazing animals. We paused briefly to marvel at a line of elands standing stoically in the golden light, an image straight out of a wildlife calendar.

The morning brought us close encounters with zebra, a huge herd of Cape buffalo, and finally, a solitary lion limping across the plain. This older male was clearly injured, his movements labored as he made his way toward the pride. We were struck by how close we could get—at one point, it felt as though he might brush against our vehicle. The lion eventually disappeared into the bush, and we continued on.

Next came a classic safari experience: a bush breakfast. Our guides set up a small table and chairs under a tree, serving up an impressive spread that included eggs, sausages, and fresh fruit. The peaceful setting—surrounded by nothing but the Mara’s vast expanse—was almost surreal. Unbeknownst to us at the time, the sausages weren’t quite gluten-free, which would later make for a bit of drama.

After breakfast, we found the pride the injured lion was trying to rejoin. The lionesses and a lone male were lounging on rocky terrain, a scene both majestic and serene. Not far from them, we encountered another highlight of the day: a cheetah with her cub.

We spent nearly two hours observing the cheetahs. At first, they lounged in the shade, the cub playfully rolling in the grass while its mother rested. Then, the cheetah got up and began stalking a herd of gazelles. We followed her as she crept low to the ground, inching closer and closer to her prey. Ultimately, she didn’t make a move, but watching her deliberate approach was mesmerizing.

Back at camp for lunch, we met Nick, a wildlife photographer who regaled us with stories about his work in the Mara. E had an unforgettable moment during her midday shower when she spotted a hippo completely out of the water—a rare sight in the heat of the day. Her excited shouts brought everyone running to catch a glimpse of the massive creature as it ambled up the riverbank.

We left a bit later to do a night drive, and some late rain that had us bundling up in warm ponchos. We started with sightings of giraffes and antelope before reconnecting with the injured lion. By then, he was close to his pride, and we were lucky enough to witness his emotional reunion with his brother. The two males greeted each other with gentle nuzzles and playful rolling, a tender moment in the wild.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, the lionesses began their hunt. We followed them for a while in near-total darkness, catching occasional glimpses of their sleek forms in the vehicle’s headlights. The experience was thrilling, though tinged with unease at the thought of disturbing their stealthy pursuit.

The drama didn’t end there. While navigating the muddy terrain, we came upon another safari vehicle stuck in a deep puddle. With ten lions hunting nearby, this wasn’t the ideal place for a breakdown. Our guides expertly maneuvered to pull the other car free, though not without breaking their hitch in the process. The stuck family—AirPods in and visibly unnerved—were undoubtedly relieved to be back on solid ground.

By this point, D wasn’t feeling well (likely due to those not-so-gluten-free sausages), so we raced back to camp. On the way, flashes of hippos grazing 2 kilometers from the river reminded us that surprises in the Mara are everywhere.

Even with our early return, the camp staff greeted us with a hot dinner at the main table, somehow rustling up a three-course meal (regular, vegan and gluten-free options) instead of having us eat our picnic dinner. The evening ended with warm conversation about Nick’s seemingly secretive career (spy theories abounded) and a cozy night under the stars, made even better by the hot water bottles tucked into our beds.

The day had it all—sunrises and sunsets, playful cubs and hunting lions, and even a touch of nighttime adventure. Life in the Mara never disappoints.

Dec 22, 2024 – Sunday Stroll

Today was a slower start—a welcome treat after a few action-packed mornings. We enjoyed a luxurious lie-in, sipping coffee brought to our tent as the camp slowly came to life. Breakfast at 7:30 was, as always, a feast: scrambled eggs, fresh fruit, and perfectly cooked gluten-free pancakes. Rejuvenated, we set off for a morning hike up the escarpment.

Our hike was more than just a walk; it was an adventure through the Mara’s diverse landscapes, accompanied by spear-carrying Masai guards. The trail wound past the river, where we spotted hippo tracks left by yesterday’s visitor, and then climbed through low forest and scrub, following well-worn game trails. Along the way, we encountered a variety of wildlife: a leopard tortoise (starting our “Small Five”), a snake that startled our guide George so much he leapt high into the air, and a flying Marabou stork that completed our “Ugly Five.” Giraffes dotted the landscape like sentinels, with families of three or more strolling gracefully nearby.

The top of the escarpment rewarded us with sweeping views of the river and the airstrip below, as well as a huge herd of cows tended by young Masai boys. At roughly 750 feet above the plain, the saddle was a broad, flat expanse—perfect for taking in the Mara’s endless horizon. On the descent, we spotted impala in the distance and even the backside of a Cape buffalo running away. The 5-mile trek left us sweaty but exhilarated.

Back at camp, we refreshed with showers and relaxed over lunch, where the kids entertained Amy and Ben with stories of American summer camps, tailgates, and the intricacies of “borgs” (making up names like Baborg and Leoborg). Amy, sporting an Ohio State jersey sent by a prior guest, learned that her team had beaten Tennessee.

The evening safari brought more excitement. We began with a cheetah sighting, only to watch the poor creature chased off by a troop of baboons—a reminder of how even the fastest animals can be vulnerable. Later, we spotted a lioness with her cubs and saw topis locking horns in a spirited duel in the middle of the road. The kids kept us entertained by practicing their Swahili with George, and as dusk fell, Dad spotted an owl—likely a Verreaux’s eagle-owl—perched in a tree.

The Sundowner was hosted at a private camp along the river, where we toasted the day with drinks (the kids opted for Dawa, a refreshing mix of vodka, lime, and sugar we first learned about in Nairobi). DIY s’mores added a nostalgic touch, with makeshift graham crackers and gooey marshmallows roasted over the fire. Dad gave the guides a quick tutorial on Old Fashioneds with the good Woodford bourbon. As darkness descended, infrared goggles revealed hippos emerging from the water, their massive forms lumbering up the riverbank.

The short drive back to camp packed in even more wildlife. We saw two hyenas skulking along the road, a Cape hare darting ahead of the vehicle, and a Genet cat lounging in a tree. The highlight, however, was a comedic moment with a hippo. Blinded by our flashlight, it ran full tilt into a tree, shaking the branches and leaving us all in stitches. Fireflies twinkled in the surrounding bushes, adding a magical touch to the evening.

Dinner back at camp was lively – even a “quiet” day in the Mara is filled with moments of wonder, laughter, and adventure.

Dec 23, 2024 – Farewell to the Mara

Our last morning in the Masai Mara began early, as always. At 5:30 a.m., we said our goodbyes to Amy, who sent us off with iced coffee and a stash of chocolate. With a bittersweet feeling in the air, we set out for one final game drive before leaving this magical place.

The morning began with a peaceful sight: a group of hippos making their way back to the river after a night of grazing. We followed their lumbering forms as the sun began to rise, casting the Mara in soft, golden light. Not long after, we encountered a lone hyena trotting along the road, its posture alert as it headed toward something of interest.

That “something” turned out to be the site of last night’s lion kill. As we approached, the scene came into view: a half-eaten wildebeest surrounded by a dozen safari vehicles. Lions sprawled lazily nearby, their bellies full, while one lion occasionally gnawed on the carcass. Jackals darted in and out, their fearless energy contrasting with the sluggish lions. The jackals were fascinating to watch, their small, agile bodies moving confidently among the much larger predators.

Hyenas circled at a distance, eyes fixed on the kill, ready to swoop in if the lions let their guard down. At one point, a group of hyenas approached the carcass, only to quickly retreat when the male lion stood up to assert his dominance. It was a classic Mara standoff—each animal playing its role in the intricate dance of predator and scavenger.

On our way back, we saw hartebeests grazing in the distance, a species we hadn’t encountered before. Their striking posture and curved horns were a reminder of how much diversity the Mara has to offer, even after days of exploration.

Finally, it was time to head to the airstrip to begin our journey—one that would take us through a whirlwind of eight airports. Before leaving, the staff at camp sent us off with a packed breakfast of hard-boiled eggs, sandwiches, and apples, which we gratefully grabbed on our way to the plane.

As the tiny aircraft lifted off from Mara North Airstrip, we took one last look at the savannah below, the winding river and endless plains stretching out into the horizon. The Mara had given us so much—unforgettable wildlife encounters, stunning landscapes, and memories to last a lifetime. It was hard to say goodbye, but we left with full hearts, ready for the adventures to come.