Amboseli, Kenya

Dec 17, 2024

We were up early due to jet lag, and fought with the coffee machines in the rooms to try to caffeinate. Then were off to Wilson airport for an early morning flight to Amboseli. The small Wilson airport was easy to navigate, and the flight short and uneventful.

When we landed, we met our driver/guide, Solomon, who was dressed in traditional colorful Masai robes. At the airport one of the guards sold us an Amboseli booklet that showed the common animals, and it turned out to be a hit as we checked them off. As we headed toward Elewana Tortillis Camp, we started with colorful birds, and some elephants and baboons in the distance. Unfortunately Kilimanjaro was covered in clouds – which it would be for the next several days – so we couldn’t get the iconic elephant photo in front of Kili.

There had been quite a bit of rain, so there was a lot of marshy areas. We stopped by one pond where there were a bunch of flamingoes – they look almost fake, they are so crazy looking. We saw eagles, egrets, ostriches, and a bunch of other birds as well. We saw some vervet monkeys, and baboons with babies on their bellies. And we hadn’t even reached the lodge yet!

We wanted to see hippos, so Solomon took us to another area where we could see their eyes ane ears just peeping out. It was the middle of the day, so they didn’t emerge, but fun to watch their ears twitch.

We were delighted when Solomon turned down a road and approached a herd of elephants just crossing, so they completely surrounded us in front and back. There were a number of babies, including one only a month old. The mom was staying very close and keeping it in line with her trunk, and when the baby got tired it just lay down and took a 5 minute power nap – so cute!

We headed to the camp, hungry and happy. They checked us in quickly to a beautiful family “tent” – is it really a tent if it has a foundation, solid roof, wood porch, and a permanent full bath? About the only tent part was the canvas walls. Still, it was well appointed and very comfortable. And they prepared lunch on early for us, so we could feast since we had skipped breakfast. The bar and restaurant overlook a watering hole and the valley floor leading to Kilimanjaro. Stunning setting.

After a siesta, we went back out with Solomon and saw even more of what Amboseli has to offer, including giraffes, cape buffalo, gazelles, and zebras. We saw a bat-eared fox and surprised an African wildcat that chased it – too fast to get a picture. One enormous bull elephant got alarmingly close to the car. Then we found the lions! There wasn’t a big male with a mane, but a bunch of beautiful females and juvenile males lounging around in the shade. Solomon broke out the G&Ts and we sipped as we watched them sleep and play and chase dung beetles. Some of them got up and walked right up to our vehicle, completely ignoring us.

We thought they were going to go after a lone cape buffalo. What happened surprised us: the lone buffalo was joined by others and they started charging toward the lions, who ran away quickly followed by the stampede. We thought maybe we were going to see a kill, but it almost wasn’t the one we thought!

We hung around until sunset, then went back for another wonderful meal. We loved seeing the tiny dikdiks around the camp where they feel protected. The bubble frogs at the watering hole were popping so loud we couldn’t believe they were real – sounded almost mechanical. We did some photo purging – we had taken over 1000 for the day – and then headed to bed. Hard to imagine a better first day in Amboseli.

Dec 18, 2024

We were awakened before sunrise with a friendly greeting a tray of hot coffee and tea. The early morning was foggy and a little chilly, we were glad for the blankets in the Land Cruiser. We saw a few animals as we drove around, but it was pretty foggy to see anything. Solomon was looking for hippos out of the water for us, but it seemed that were were out of luck. The excitement happened when we tried to get a closer look at a big solo bull elephant. The ground was marshy and got heavier and muddier as we went. Solomon finally decided we had to turn around, and as we were doing so, got stuck! Fortunately there were no lions around, and the elephant went away into the fog.

Solomon worked hard to dig us out, starting with his machete and whacking away at the tough grass and bushes. Then he got out the shovel, and tried to move enough to give the wheels room to move. Every time he’d try to move, mud would splatter everywhere and we’d sink deeper. He got out the high-lift to get the wheel over a particularly stubborn bush, but that didn’t work either. We tried to help push, but that just got us all covered in mud.

Finally, help arrived, and we could tell by the banter in Masai that Solomon was getting a good teasing from the other guides. They said “What were you thinking?” and made us walk a few hundred yards out so they wouldn’t get stuck too. We hopped in another vehicle and were transported swiftly to our surprise bush breakfast. What a treat! They had moved an entire kitchen out on the plain, with a full omelet station, fruit, and mimosas. We feasted like royalty while watching the ostrich and baboons in the distance.

By the time we were finished Solomon drove up in the Land Cruiser – they had pulled him out with another vehicle. We had a scheduled visit with a local Maasai village, so we headed in that direction, peppering Solomon with questions about village life. On the way we saw hundreds of zebras – it was funny that we were searching for them yesterday.

At the village we received a welcome dance, and then another traditional blessing dance where the men jump high to attract the women. We were all included in the dance, but we couldn’t jump nearly as high. Then they showed us how they make fire by spinning a hard wood against a softer one, and we got to try it as well. We ducked low inside the house made of cow dung, and as our eyes adjusted, saw the fire pit and the bed covered in cowhide.

Then we did some shopping among the crafts they laid out on blankets outside the village. We purchased some bracelets and beaded coasters, and admired the head man’s polished ebony stick. He offered to sell it to us, so we bought that too! Tired from our long morning, we headed back to camp for lunch, naps, and a refreshing dip in the pool. And we put our muddy clothes in the laundry – love that they do that for free (except underwear).

On the evening game drive, we learned even more about the Maasai and why they knock out their lower front teeth (so they can be fed if they get lockjaw) and burn their cheeks (to attract the flies that would otherwise eat their eyeballs). Even the ear lobe slicing is related to withstanding the pain of circumcision. Super interesting to hear how their culture is changing as well – less nomadic, for example, and women can choose birth control.

We saw a few gazelle, ostriches, and baboons, but the highlight of the evening was the hippos. We saw at least 18 in the water, and there were probably many more. We enjoyed our evening gin & tonics while watching them grunt and play with each other. One mom even came out briefly with her baby – so cute! As evening fell they came out on the other side, but we didn’t get good pics because darkness was falling.

Back at the lodge we had another amazing dinner catering to regular, gluten free and vegan diets, did some photo purging, and headed to bed.

Dec 19, 2024

Our third day in Amboseli we were familiar with the routine, and with coffee in hand were in the vehicle before dawn. This time we saw hyenas! D spotted one walking alone, and then Solomon found a mom and baby just lounging together. We watched them for a while, as a few more came and went.

As we drove away, we saw some bat eared fox and then turned and we saw some giraffes just in front of the car, surprising us by popping their heads up. Later we drove through a forest following 4 big bull elephants who staged a wonderful play fight for us, clacking their tusks and twining their trunks as they pushed at each other.

On the way back to camp we saw some warthogs and collected a few more birds for our list. We had an epic breakfast with omelet bar and full spread, and settled in for some downtime. We did power yoga, swam in the pool, and read our books. At one point a juvenile red cobra fell off the roof in front of the girls and slithered away – exciting!

The rain began in the afternoon, and came down really hard for a while. This afternoon we had a walking tour scheduled, and while they offered us a ride, we opted to walk anyway. The rain had mostly stopped, but it was pretty wet out.

We hiked out the entrance and over the ridge around to the back of the camp, identifying scat and a few flowers. We watched elephants in the distance on the next ridge. Then we climbed to the top of our hill, where we found a full bar set up for us! We enjoyed some drinks and snacks as we watched the sun set from the top of the ridge. We even got a great rainbow!

Soloman drove us back to camp after dark where once more we feasted on a three course dinner that catered to each of preferences and enjoyed more Tuskers Cider.

Dec 20, 2024

On our final morning in Amboseli, we convinced Solomon to leave at 6 again, so we could get in one last game drive on our way to the airport. We had all our bags packed, and a box breakfast of yogurt, sandwiches, and hard-boiled eggs and set off.

We were surprised and delighted by an entire herd of 30 elephants just outside the gate of the camp – so close we were a little worried. We watched them cross the road, males play-fighting and females herding their babies.

We then drove to see the hippos again, watching a spectacular sunrise while we were there. On the way to the airport, we saw flying flamingos, pink against the sky. Kilimanjaro finally emerged from the clouds for the first time in our 3 days, and we got some great pictures in front of the snow-covered peak.

At the airport we had a few minutes to eat our box breakfasts, while staring at Kilimanjaro in the background. We said a heartfelt goodbye to Solomon, and hopped on the plane to the Masai Mara (via Nairobi).

Elewana Tortillis Camp